Buffers : A primer in selection and technique
See Figure 12

Some of the finest, most lustrous, most flawless polishing and waxing services, on some of the world's most expensive and exotic auto exteriors, are done by pro-detailers who advertise, "All work done by hand."

These pros never use a 'buffer'-either an orbital or rotary buffing machine. Nor, in fact, do they go looking for customers or need to. Owners of the exotic cars they detail solely by hand often willingly wait weeks for a detailing appointment. Just as willingly, these car owners pay handsomely for the hours of hand labor, expertise, and skill for which these top-echelon detailers are locally-and sometimes regionally-renowned.

Some other pro-detailers, equally skilled and equally capable of producing show car exteriors, regularly use machine buffers to help speed (and, some claim, make better) their buffing services. The difference? The time spent, thus the charge, for equally top-quality exterior detailing.

Where the strictly by hand detailer may spend 4-6 hours, and sometimes more than a day, detailing a car's exterior, the buffer-using detailer may accomplish much the same results in 2-4 hours. The manual detailer may charge $l00-$300, and more, for the same service the buffer-wielding detailer turns out for $75- $125.

Nonetheless, some owners of exotic cars absolutely will not permit a buffer anywhere near their paint services, no matter how skilled and practiced the buffer operator. They know something many do-it-yourself detailers may not: some types of buffing machines, notably the rotary kind, are unforgiving. A momentary lapse of the operator's attention can allow the buffer, because it is powerful, to cut-"burn"-right through a paint service. And, in the case of clear-coated cars, right through the clearcoat and down to, even through, the color layer of paint. By contrast, other types of buffing machines-orbital buffers-are far less apt to do damage, even in the hands of a weekend detailer.

While pro-detailers may endlessly argue whether or not the weekend detailer should attempt to speed exterior detailing with a buffer, there is only one super-safe decision: if you have never before used a buffer, or lack real buffer skill, don't hone your skill on your car's fragile and expensive paint service. Do exterior detailing by hand. If you want eventually to speed the service with a buffer, learn and practice buffer skills on another paint surface.

Still, knowing about buffers and how to use them are important first steps toward deciding, for yourself, whether you will eventually do some detailing with an assist from a buffer.

First, some facts:

1. Almost all makers of professional detailing polishes and waxes offer three choices of products: those designed to be applied only by hand, those designed to be applied only by machine, and those which can be applied either by hand or by machine. Polishes, glazes, and waxes formulated for machine application are almost universally in liquid form.
2. Some of the top producers of detail products, who make both manual and machine polishes and waxes, recognize at least one type of buffing machine-the orbital buffer-as a relatively safe tool even in unskilled hands. Orbital buffing machines get their name from the fact that their rotation describes an ellipse, or orbit, rather than a circle, as do rotary buffers. (Even so, many experts concede that the orbital is not capable of the same exacting paint-finish work as the rotary buffer.)

One type of orbital buffing/polishing machine is called a "random orbital" buffer. Its random elliptical orbits simulate the eccentric circular motion of hand polishing. Another type of buffing machine, although it's more commonly employed in sanding, is a "dual action" (DA) buffer. It can be switched from orbital rotation to straight line operation. Some weekend detailers use an electric drill fitted with a buffing pad, although most experts don't recommend it because it is difficult to control.

3. Although wool, synthetic wool, and terry cloth buffing pads (called "bonnets") have long been used as the buffer's applicator of polishes and waxes, preferred today by many pro-detailers, and certainly when working on many clearcoat car finishes, is the new foam buffing/polishing pad.

   On clearcoat finish, especially, wool buffing pads are notorious for leaving swirl marks-the circular pattern of the buffer's action. Wool is also abrasive. The new foam pads, properly used, are virtually non-abrasive. So are the best of terry cloth buffing pads, although to a lesser degree.

4. Buffer speed is critical to achieving a brilliant finish without finish damage. Do-it-yourself detailers should use low buffer speeds-in the order of 1200-1750 rpm. Buffers operated at higher speed (1750-3000 rpm) require professional skill.

There are two buffer types, with basic differences. Their detailing uses are discussed below.

Orbital buffers
See Figure 13

Orbital buffers are suited for the application of non-abrasive products to improve gloss without leaving buffer swirl marks. The results are similar to those created by hand buffing, it's just easier. Do not expect to remove paint defects or oxidization with an orbital buffer, but it is ideally suited to an operator with limited skill who might easily burn (damage or cut through) paint with a rotary buffer.

Rotary buffers

The buffing machines used by pros for all types of automotive paint finishes are rotary, available in a range of speeds. The correct buffing speed is determined by the type of car paint being worked on:

• Low-speed buffers (1200-1750 rpm) are most effective on the newer, high-tech paint finishes which are more reactive to excessive heat buildup and static electricity.
• High-speed buffers (1750-3000 rpm) are ideal for use on conventional acrylic lacquer and acrylic enamel auto finishes. High-speed buffers require a greater level of operator skill.

Variable speed machines-which can operate effectively at both high and low rpms-are also available. While high-quality "variables" do an effective service, low-quality "variables" often lose their speed when pressure is put on them.

Buffing machines can often be inexpensively rented for a few hours. Pads cannot be rented; you'll have to buy fresh ones.

How to use buffing machines
See Figures 14, 15, 16 and 17

Basic rules and techniques:

1. Use only polishes, waxes, and other buffing products specifically designed-and designated-"for machine buffing." Almost all are liquids, not pastes or waxes.
2. Use only buffing pads or bonnets recommended for the buffing products you use. There are two types of conventional wool buffing pads: cutting pads, used with slightly abrasive polishes to remove oxidation and scratches, and finishing pads, used with non-abrasive wax, to remove swirl marks left by the cutting pad and to create a final mirror-like finish.
3. If you buff with several different products, use a separate buffing pad for each. Change or clean pads frequently to avoid abrasive buildup of the buffing product.
4. Buff only a small area of the finish at a time- an area about 2 feet x 2 feet.
5. Never buff a car's finish with the buffing pad alone (dry). Always buff using a buffing product.
6. Buffing products are usually applied (squirted from a squeeze bottle) directly on the small surface to be buffed, rather than on the pad or bonnet. (However, some buffing products are applied to both the pad and the surface of the finish.) If the label instructs you to apply the product directly on the finish, don't make a puddle. Squirt the product in a continuous line pattern to cover the area.
7. With the machine turned off, use the buffer's pad to manually spread the buffing product evenly over the area you plan to buff.
8. Before you turn the machine on, be sure you have a firm and controlling grasp. Most buffing machines are equipped with a side grasp or handle. In effect, the operator's hands are working at right angles to one another for better control. Even so, buffers are not lightweight. (Buffers offered by one maker weigh from 7-8¼ pounds.) If the buffer feels too heavy, an indication that you may not have the strength or skill to control it, play it safe-don't attempt machine buffing. Buff the finish manually instead.
9. Buff only on a clean, cool surface. The friction of buffing causes heat buildup, which must be avoided. If, after a couple of passes, the surface you're buffing feels warm or hot to the touch, stop. Turn off the machine and let the surface cool. Or, in some cases, depending on the product you're using, you can quick-cool the surface with a damp cloth. Usually, two to four passes complete most buffing services.
10. Never let your eyes or attention wander from what you're doing. To do so risks "burning" through the finish. Burning can happen in a split second. To avoid distractions, such as the buffer's electric cord hanging up on a car part or scraping over the finish, drape the cord over your shoulder, keeping it away from the car's finish.
11. Hold the buffer so that the pad is flat (parallel) to the surface you're buffing. As you buff, you can tip the pad slightly in the direction you're buffing: tip it to the right when moving the buffer to the right, and tip it left when moving the buffer left. Tipping the pad slightly gives better buffing control. But never tip it so much that you're buffing with the pad's edge. Edge buffing can easily burn through the finish.
12. Keep the buffer moving at all times. Move the buffer in short, straight, even, and overlapping strokes. Exert minimum pressure to achieve the results you want (removal of oxidation on conventionally painted surfaces, if you re using a cleaner/polish; luster and shine, if you're using a final wax).
13. Do not, ever, buff over "ridges"-such "ridge lines" as the edges of fenders, head and taillights, hood "ridges," or the like. Running a buffing pad over ridges, where finish is thinnest, risks instant burning. Instead, spread whatever liquid product you re using up to, but on either side of a ridge. Buff up to the ridge, never over or right on it. Very gently, very carefully, "feather" (tilt, with virtually no pressure) the pad so as merely to brush the ridge. That is buffing enough on such thin-painted, vulnerable ridge areas.
14. Clean buffer pads frequently. Wool pads (used on conventional finishes only) can be rid of wax or other product buildup with a special pad-cleaning tool called a spur. It's available at most auto supply stores. Or you can use a dull screwdriver, although, unlike the spur, it can damage a wool or terry cloth bonnet. To clean a bonnet, grasp the machine firmly, perhaps resting it on your knee. Turn the buffer on and as the pad spins, apply the spur (or screwdriver) to the pad. Buildup will be dislodged. Dislodged, too, whether you're buffing or cleaning the bonnet, will be product splatter. If you buff, expect splatter. Wear old clothes and, as do some pros, protective glasses or goggles. Wool and terry cloth bonnets may also shed. Splatter or bonnet shed-or whatever-that falls on the buffed finish can be removed with a clean, soft, non-abrasive 100% cotton cloth.
15. Static electricity sometimes causes excessive buildup of buffing products on bonnets and pads. Some pros, before starting to buff, ground the car to prevent the buildup of static electricity. A simple grounding wire is clamped to any bare metal chassis member and run to the nearest bare metal water pipe, or to a metal grounding stake. Besides avoiding ridge lines, work carefully around places-and appendages-where the whirling bonnet or pad can get caught. Or, worse, tear off car parts, such as windshield wipers (front and back), antennas, fuel doors, or retractable headlight covers. If possible, remove such vulnerable parts as wipers and antennas before buffing.
16. Frequently evaluate the results of your buffing. Check the surface under full sunlight, and from various angles. If working indoors, use a shop trouble light to reveal swirl marks or flaws. Excellent for in-garage or service center inspection is a 300-watt quartz halogen light, available at hardware and home supply centers. Fluorescent lights generally fail to fully reveal swirl marks and faint scratches. A foam buffing pad can be used to remove any swirls a wool pad may leave behind.
17. You can begin buffing the finish almost anywhere. Some detailers prefer to start with the roof. Since it is usually flat, there's little chance of burn-through. Others begin at one side of the hood, working from windshield to front, then doing the hood's other half. For the right-handed, it's generally easier working to the right, all the way around the car. Lefties usually find it easier to buff in the opposite direction. "Leading" with one's strongest hand gives most buffer-users more confidence and control.

Both confidence and control increase with practice. The more you buff, the easier-and quicker-the buffing. No doubt about it, buffing shortcuts exterior detailing and often achieves a mirror-finish that's arduous to achieve manually.

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